The little city of Pistoia, with its quintessential medieval square, its wealth of charming churches (containing three important early Renaissance pulpits) and its enchanting della Robbia frieze across the Ospedale del Ceppo, is one of the best- kept secrets in Tuscany. It has the added advantage of being a well-placed base for visiting Pisa, Lucca and Florence.

The surrounding Pistoian hills are serenely peaceful, and we have several agreeable places to stay at in these hills, including self- catering apartments, bed-and­breakfasts and hotels proper, including one real gem.